Captivating Caucasus

The tiny Caucasus mountains ski-resort village of Dombai would have to be one of Russia’s best-kept secrets.

Spectacularly surrounded by soaring snow-capped peaks, it has scenery to rival Switzerland’s. But far from fulfilling its tourism potential, Dombai doesn’t even seem to be trying, which makes it refreshingly untouristy. The peak time is winter, when Russian skiers and snowboarders come in droves. Summer is quieter — some hotels don’t even bother to open — but still there is much to see and do for those who like hiking, mountain climbing, rafting and horseriding.

The town

Located in the republic of Karachayevo-Cherkessia, near Russia’s border with Abkhazia, Dombai is not easy to reach — but is well worth the effort. At a height of 1,650 meters, it is nestled in a valley with a 360-degree panorama of 3,400- to 4,000-meter-high mountains, abundant waterfalls, lush forests and unusual wildflowers, including a rare Red Book-listed rhododendron.

The mountains make Dombai Russia’s Switzerland, but you won’t find neat chalets here. The village itself is a bit shabby, and a flurry of building activity since the lifting of construction restrictions means the tranquillity is shattered by the sound of hammers and drills. But Dombai’s compact size and the breathtaking nature more than compensate, and you don’t have to walk far to find pristine scenery with no noise other than birdsong and rushing streams.

Shops are few but can be found in the small quarter where the apartment blocks stand. The locals can speak Russian but use Karachai among themselves; they are friendly and happy to be helpful, but in general leave tourists alone.

Despite its proximity to the violence in other parts of the North Caucasus, and its inclusion in some travel advisory warning lists, Dombai was peaceful and safe when we visited last summer.

The sights

First on any tourist’s agenda should be the four-stage chairlift to the top of 3,012-meter-high Mount Mussa Achitara. At each stop on the way, the views become more amazing — don’t miss the flying saucer-shaped Tarelka hotel (pictured left) — and there are cafes where you can stop for a snack before the next ascent. At the top, the Caucasus mountain range is breathtaking, and enterprising locals sell woollen hats and shawls to those who didn’t anticipate arctic winds while it’s hot and summery in the valley below. It’s worth stopping to warm up in the cafe, a modest little spot with some of the best views anywhere.

Dombai’s natural wonders are too many to list here, but some of the best sights can only be seen with the assistance of a guide and driver — and a border-zone pass. Besides the fact that the trails are largely unmarked and hard to navigate, almost all seem to lead into restricted zones where border guards await, blocking access to those who lack the required document. It’s best to arrange your border-zone pass in advance of your visit, and this can be done through the Bars agency (87872 58-223). Bars can also arrange drivers, tours and guides, as can Express-Service (87872 58-320), with an office in the cable car building. Express-Service is also the place where you need to register upon arrival.

Getting there